JBR (Sorry..More like a book!)

Got back this week and had the mammoth job of writing a JBR. Unfortunately it is long. I did try and cut it down but had so much to tell.

LONG STAY CAR PARKING

Used BAP Airport parking which are only 5 minutes from Brisbane Airport. It only cost $133 for 16 days for covered security carparking with free shuttle transfers. They were there to collect us within 10 minutes of clearing customs on our return. I would definitely use them again.

DUTY FREE ALCOHOL

As we had a connecting flight in Bangkok to Chiang Mai we were concerned about whether we could take alcohol on to the Chiang Mai flight. We were assured we could as long as it was kept sealed in the plastic bags it was placed into when purchasing. We were also advised that if it was confiscated for any reason we only needed to bring the slip back that would be issued in Bangkok at the time and a full refund would be given.

THAI AIRLINES

Had our bags wrapped which only costs $9 per bag. It was 10pm so joined the long line to check in. It took about an hour and was 11pm by the time we had done this so went downstairs through customs to the departure lounge. Flight was delayed an hour so it was about 1.15 am before we left Brisbane. At 2am they came around with huge meal including Thai noodles. 2am in the morning? I don%26#39;t think so! The next 9 hours would have to be the longest in my life. I can%26#39;t sleep on planes and it was so unbearable hot and stuffy. Kept drinking heaps of water then had to keep getting up to go to the toilet. At around 5am (8am Aussie time) they bought around breakfast. At least the lights went on then and they turned the TV on so it helped fill in time until 6.30am when we landed. The staff were so lovely though. Nothing was too much trouble and they do everything they can to try and make you comfortable. And I have to love those warm towels when they wake you up (or at least the ones that did manage to sleep). If I live to be 100 I will never take another night time flight.

BANGKOK AIRPORT

We had heard the new airport is huge and difficult to negotiate so we were concerned that we wouldn%26#39;t know where to go to get our domestic flight. But the flight staff made an announcement before we disembarked on what to do for anyone travelling on. Everything was well marked and we just had to follow the signs so was actually quite easy. Had a 4 hour stop over there before the flight to Chiang Mai. This wasn%26#39;t too bad as the airport was big so plenty to look at and passed the time doing this, having a coffee and emailing our kids to make sure they hadn%26#39;t had their first party while we were away. Got to Chiang Mai Plaza around 12.30 p.m.

WEATHER

The weather was not nearly as good this year with rain every day apart from 4. Sometimes it was a downpour for 20 minutes where all the roads flooded and other days would last for 3 hours in the morning or afternoon but not as heavy. Didn%26#39;t spoil anything but I think next year we%26#39;ll go in June again as there are great deals in the low season but not as much chance of rain in June as there is July/August.

PRICES

We felt the prices had gone up from last year but still very cheap. Some of the things we got were

T-Shirts - 100 to 150 baht for good quality Billabong ones

Boardshorts – 220 baht

Guess wallets – 300 baht

Sarongs – 100 to 120 baht

Leather thongs – 300 baht

Timber 3 piece buddha face – 380 baht for medium size (started at 2800 baht)

Dresses and skirts – 100 to 180 baht

Silk boxer shorts – 60 baht

Silk dressing gown – 350 baht for good quality thick double sided one

Silk Pajama%26#39;s – 200 baht

Billabong hooded jumper – 250 baht

Timber vases – 180 baht

Large makeup silk cases – 60 baht

Elephants – From 70 baht

Timber coasters in timber box – 180 baht

CHIANG MAI

Checked in at Chiang Mai Plaza and staff this year were full of smiles and very welcoming. Found out later that most staff have been replaced in this hotel. Our stay at the hotel was every bit as good as last year but I would recommend upgrading to a deluxe room which is what we did. Value for money is great and an excellent location. Fantastic foyer area. Pool is OK for a city hotel, nice gym and sauna, massage area, few shops and restaurant. The only critism I would have is that the restaurant is only average (apart from breakfast which was fine except for the pancakes which are hard as rocks – Both years!!). We had 2 meals there. One was lunch the first day we arrived and then another lunch on one day. There is not a great deal of choice.

The first afternoon we explored the area on foot, wandered through the night markets and had dinner at The Riverside. This has beautiful food, beautiful atmosphere, right on the river, great service and cheap. We wandered back to the night bazaar for another hour before falling into bed about 9.30 pm. The 2nd, 3rd and 4th day we hired the same company and guide with an air conditioned van and driver for 2 of the days. The van cost 1500 baht + petrol and the guide was an additional 500 baht. The Samlor tour cost 1000 baht per person and included everything (transport, guide, entries, lunch, drinks).

2nd Day Samlor Tour – We were collected from our hotel at 9am by Thai men peddaling bikes that were attached to little carriages that we rode around in. It was a unique way of seeing the old city and temples and was so much fun and so different. The old city still has parts of it%26#39;s walls and gates intact but most crumbling down from the war. The city itself is over 700 years old with many ancient temples inside the walls. Absolutely love the history of this place. Also went to the local markets where all the locals purchase their fresh food. Very different from supermarkets back home. They also had flowers which were displayed in arrangements of different shapes and sizes that were quite spectacular and very colourful. Had lunch in a local cafe that our guide advised had the best noodle soup in Chiang Mai. He was right. The food was delicious although spicy and only 10-25 baht for each dish. Sorry everyone but I can%26#39;t remember the name. Got back to the hotel about 2.30 pm.

Sunday Street Markets – Most people rave about these but I was a little disappointed. I must admit I was in a lot of pain that day with a sore ankle so this may have been why. Anyway we arrived about 4pm. Was good for the first hour then got really busy so could hardly move. Went on for ever. Soooooo big. So at 8pm I was in agony and said I had to go back to hotel. Now my sister was going to the night bazaar. Not one to miss out I said I was coming too. “Oh yeah%26#39; says hubbie. %26#39;And how are you planning to walk?%26#39; Easy fixed. Had a couple of vodka and orange followed by 2 neurofen plus. The result.....Well I don%26#39;t actually remember but apparently I bartered heavily, got the best bargains anyone could possible get in the entire history of the night bazaar and provided a lot of entertainment for my family. About 11 p.m. we decided we were hungry so went into McDonalds for something to eat. How sad is that. I don%26#39;t even like McDonalds. Went back to hotel about midnight and collapsed. Well I had shopped for 8 hours straight apart from a small break of an hour.

I do prefer the familiarity of the night bazaar as it was not so spread out and easier to negotiate as the street markets seem to go off in every different direction.

3rd Day Private tour - Today we didn%26#39;t get picked up till 9am. Decided to do the local handicraft villages to start. Enjoyed the silk factory. It was amazing watching how the fabric is made from the silk worms and how switched on the woman have to be to avoid mistakes. I wouldn%26#39;t be co-ordinated enough to get the legs, arms and eyes to do something different all at the same time. Bought a couple of little souveniers such as silk box full if incense that is really sweet and little silk photo frames. Next was the umbrella village. These people are so artistic. Loved watching from the start how the umbrellas were made then painted. Next was the cashmere carpet place. Beautiful colours and designs but this was really just a hard sell and not even done by Thai people. Didn%26#39;t like this at all. Decided against the ceramics factories as we had arranged to do this at Lampang.

We then went to the Chiang Mai Zoo. Spread over a really big area. We walked for a little while and fed the giraffes, looked at the tigers, lions, panthers and everything else that amounts to big cats. Looked at a few other enclosures then we went to see the Pandas. They were asleep but were gorgeous. It was so hot that we got back in the van and drove around the rest. If we go back to Chiang Mai I would like to do this again by foot and spend the day.

After that was lunch in a tree house built on the side of a cliff overlooking a waterfall. Now this was truly stunning. Fantastic food, great views and the best watermelon shakes we had. Prices were very reasonable. Restaurant was called Huan Huay Kaew and is near Doi Suthep.

We then went up to the top of the mountain to visit a hilltribe. Now let me paint the picture for you. High rock wall on one side, sheer and I mean sheer drop straight to the bottom on the other side and not much in the way of guard rails. The road felt like it was about 6 foot wide with huge pot holes everywhere that the driver kept trying to avoid. Now I ask you %26#39;Where does he think he%26#39;s going to go on a road 6 foot wide to avoid a pot hole????” And then we have the fun of meeting another car. Just closed my eyes and prayed at this stage. Remember the song Whiter shade of Pale? Well that was my sister and I. She asked %26#39;Who thought of this?%26#39; to which I replied %26#39;It seemed like a good idea at the time%26#39;. Men of course thought we were over dramatic which we probably were! Finally reached the top and talk about commercialised. There is a street set up with stalls on either side with people peddaling their wares. We went for a walk up to the top where they actually live and have their farming area and gardens. Everything was so green and beautiful flowers. Although commercialised we are glad we went. There are some beautiful gardens and the experience is worth it. The drive down was a lot better.

Last stop was the Doi Suthep but we cheated this year and caught the cable car up. Stunning views and beautiful buildings up there. Walked back down the 350 steps and legs were still shaking when we got to the bottom even though we didn%26#39;t walk up.

That night went to the Whole Earth which is a beautiful old teak house. Last year the food was really good. This year it was disgusting and quite expensive by Thai standards. It obviously depends on what night you go and who is cooking but I wouldn%26#39;t go to this restaurant again.

Next stop was........you guessed it. The night bazaar. Soooooo love that place. Best shopping in Thailand. Shopped for quite some time. Bought a timber lamp that looks like a bird cage. Started at 6,000 baht and I finally got it down to 2,500 baht. Really wanted it last year but couldn%26#39;t get it in the luggage so this year decided to get it. They wrapped it in a huge box which was a bit scarey. Not sure how we were getting it back but we did well.

4th Day – Again we did a private tour and were collected at 8.30 am. This was our favourite day and the highlight of our trip. We were supposed to go to the Elephant Conservation Centre and Lampang. But the day looked like it was going to be wet and miserable and TECC was 1 ½ hours drive while Mae Sa was only 20 minutes. I asked our guide for his opinion on elephant camps as we had been to Mae Sa last year and loved it. He said Mae Sa is the biggest and as far as the Thai%26#39;s are concerned the best elephant camp. I wanted my sister to have as good an experience as we had so decided to change at last minute and so glad we did. We had the best day from the time we walked up to the gate and was cuddled by an elephant, to having one brush past us as he was walking down the track, to watching the bathing, feeding them bananas, watching the show, going on a ride through the jungle, buying an elephant painting, going up to see the babies. It was incredible and just so much fun. Words just can%26#39;t describe it and I can%26#39;t recommend it more. The camp is quite big and the elephants are well looked after with no sign of any abuse. Everything is so very clean and there seems to be a genuine repore between the handlers and their elephants. We spent hours here and were still there long after the other tourists had gone as we had walked up to the nursery area, spent time selecting a painting, took lots of photos and just took our time. Finally left about 1pm when the afternoon crowd started to arrive.

We had booked the van for the entire day but decided to head back to the hotel and go for a swim and relax. Stopped at the Orchid and Butterfly farm first then made a detour through the rice fields so we could watch the farming techniques. Got back to the hotel about 2.30pm and had a late lunch about 3. Then went for a massage (our first one can you believe) and to email the kids as we were doing this daily. Now because I am blonde I decided to shave my legs first as didn%26#39;t want a Thai woman touching my prickly legs and thought that would be nice as they would be so smooth...Wrong!!!! Didn%26#39;t realise that they used alcohol rub first. Yes on freshly shaved legs. Was a lot easier to massage them as I was daggling from the roof with my head stuck in the beams!!!!!

Went and got our photos developed after this and emailed the kids. Had the best cup of coffee in a little cafe and internet only cost 15 baht for 30 minutes. On the same side of the road as CM Plaza hotel.

Walked back to the Riverside restaurant again for a very late dinner as the sate%26#39; was to die for and we wanted more. After dinner walked back to the night bazaar to finish off with some great bargains.

PHUKET

Novotel Coralia Patong Hotel - Nice welcome with refreshing fruit juice and cold towels. Bit of a shock to be asked for a 5000 baht bond as we didn%26#39;t want to supply a credit card. This was actually a reduction as we were supposed to give them 1000 baht per day. Was no problem getting it back at the end though so worked out OK as this ended up paying for most of our tours in Bangkok. Then we found they had given us a room on the top floor in the furthest building from anything. Kicked up a fuss and said we had booked 6 months ago, were return guests and specifically requested a room off the pool level. Told them we didn%26#39;t want to stay up the hill and wanted to be moved. Finally they agreed to move us but didn%26#39;t have a room available until the following day so only had one night in this block. The rooms were beautiful and had great views. Novotel has everything. Peace and quiet, stunning views, friendly staff, 3 good pools, lovely rooms. I was just as impressed this year as last with this hotel.

Phuket days were pretty repetitive. We really just wanted to chill and enjoy ourselves there. Had quite a bit of rain but didn%26#39;t spoil anything. Spent some time around the pool most days. Read books, had a cocktail at happy hour, went for a walk down the street, emailed the kids, had some feet and leg massages, found a restaurant to have dinner, did some shopping in the markets, walked back to Novotel (sometimes caught a tuk tuk).

We hired a driver with van for 1000 baht one day. He was supposed to speak English which he did but they neglected to tell us he didn%26#39;t really understand it. So everything we said was very difficult to get him to understand. He took us to the lookouts and checking the beaches. He was happy to stop wherever we wanted him to. We stopped at the elephant and gibbon centre. Were lucky to see two gibbons on the bar. Didn%26#39;t connect where it was until I heard one of them being called Charlie. They were so funny. Fighting together like a pair of kids. Then the black one jumped up onto the rafters and started flying from one beam to another with the brown one hot in pursuit. Eventually they fell to the ground and attacked the dog. We were in fits by this stage. Suddenly the black one decided to waddle off home. Got half way there when the brown one suddenly dropped from a tree above it and the fight was on again. I wanted to grab a speedboat at the bottom of the island and go to Coral Island but others weren%26#39;t interested. Would do this next year.

Went into Phuket on the Saturday as we had heard the weekend markets were excellent. We were very disappointed and only stayed 45 minutes before coming back to Patong. It only cost 300 baht for a taxi from the Novotel to Phuket town which we thought was very reasonable considering the local Tuk Tuk drivers wanted to charge 200 baht to take us from the Novotel down the street. We refused to pay more than 100 baht and got this price every time. If the first one won%26#39;t do it there are plenty that will so worth it to keep bartering. Particularly after finding they only charge 300 baht to take you on a 45 minute drive compared to 100 baht for a 3 minute drive.

Ended up booking the sea canoeing trip on one of the big boats. I had really wanted to do Marks Sailing trip and nothing will stop me from that next year. But it was our 2nd last night and we still hadn%26#39;t booked anything. Got this for 1100 baht instead of the usual 2600 baht. It was actually a lot of fun. Stopped at an island for a swim then onto several caves and different islands. Thai buffet lunch on board was yummy. Last stop was James Bond Island. Jumped off the boat and went for a swim several times and the crew were very funny and very helpful so made for a great day out.

Had some really nice dinners. Our favourites were on the beach with the sand between your toes. These were Loma%26#39;s, Sabai twice (our favourite) and Chez Bernard. Had dinner in the Thai restaurant at the Novotel once which is upmarket and a lot dearer than the local restaurants. However compared to Aussie prices was still very cheap and food and atmosphere exceptional. Liked the Banana Leaf, didn%26#39;t like %26#39;Best%26#39; which was the only really bad food we had the entire time we were there. Another night we were all sick of Thai and felt like Italian so went to Marco Polo. The pizzas and garlic bread were sooooooooooooooo good and cheap. All restaurants had wine from 90 baht to 120 baht apart from Banana Leaf where it was 150 baht. We had drinks in the upmarket bar at the Novotel one night. Big mistake. 2 glasses of wine and one beer cost me 880 baht. The wine was 340 baht per glass and beer 200 baht.

The wine in the shops was no where near as cheap as last year and we could not find a bottle under 495 baht which was about $17 Australian for a very average type. Gave up and stuck to our vodka and mango juice with lots of ice when we felt like a drink in our room.

Bought all DVD%26#39;s from Kitty%26#39;s at the O-Top for 50 baht each. They originally said 60 baht but when they realised we were buying around 150 were happy to drop. Bought a cheap cabin bag from the supermarket in the new Jungceylon Centre for 219 baht which helped get all the shopping home.

I do so love Patong. Know a lot of people think it is sleazy but I love the excitement, hustle and bustle, vibrant atmosphere and heaps of shopping places. If I want quiet I just go back to the hotel and escape it all or stay on the Northern end of the beach.

BANGKOK

Century Park Hotel - Rooms were very big and nicely furnished. Bathrooms in marble and a proper shower with separate bath. Great value for money. This hotel has many different eating places including French patisserie, Italian Restaurant, Sports bar with pool tables, International restaurant, Poolside snack bar. Like any hotel drinks are expensive but the food wasn%26#39;t too bad in prices. Sent the kids a quick email (150 baht for 10 minutes) and then went for a walk. Found an internet place close by that cost 30 baht for 30 minutes and a 7/11 within 200 metres so stocked up on mini bar items. There was no wine and we didn%26#39;t feel like bacardi breezers or vodka cruisers as all too sweet. Then discovered wine coolers. Thought these were probably like the ones at home and we can at least drink these if we were a little desperate. It turned out to be black, sweet and the most disgusting taste. We took one mouthful, choked and said oh my god we can%26#39;t drink this before forcing the rest down rather than have nothing to drink. How sad is that????????

Night got better when we were picked up at 7pm for the Loy Nava cruise. This was even better than the advertising on the internet. The boat was an old rice barge and had so much atmosphere. The buildings and boats along the river were lit up which provided a magical experience. Food very good and they had wine. Was 200 baht per glass but I could live with that. An Irishman owns the boat and spent the entire night walking from one table to the next making sure everyone was happy, that the food was to their liking, that they didn%26#39;t need to change anything, they had enough drinks. Service was 5 star. They had thai dancers who performed several different dances throughout the trip. Absolutely loved this night and wouldn%26#39;t hesitate to do it again. Special Internet price was 1275 baht but well worth the money. We got back to the hotel around 11pm.

Next day we were collected at 8.00 am by one of Tongs team (Tom). Went to Baan-Pa Summer Palace and Ayutthaya Ancient Capital. This was an amazing day. It really is worth doing a private tour with a guide that can explain everything you see and provide all the history. Tom wanted to take us to a traditional Thai restaurant but two had upset stomachs and we were all feeling like something fresh like a salad. So opted for the hotel buffet lunch which was perfect. Had big plates of salad in an air conditioned restaurant with iced drinks and best of all clean toilets. The Thai desserts were really weird with someything that looked like frogs eggs, another that looked like black licorice, something else that was like green spaghetti, shaved ice, runny syrup, plus lots more funny looking things. Tom explained afterwards that you can%26#39;t just throw everything in together as some things don%26#39;t go with others so glad we passed on this part. He did stop and get us some Thai candy that looked and felt like horse hair and were then wrapped in a warm thin crepe. Absolutely delicious. Finally got back to hotel about 5pm hot and tired. Had a quick swim then went to get photos put onto a disc so I had enough room on my camera for the following day. Emailed the kids and came back to the hotel for dinner. So tired decided to have cold shower, get into pj%26#39;s and order room service.

The next day we were collected at 7.30 am by a different tour operator and went to the floating markets and rose gardens. This was a private tour and only cost 1400 bayht each. Another great day. Our guide was Nina. She called herself this because no one could pronounce her name right and it came out as the same name used for Thai womans breasts. So she said this didn%26#39;t work as Thai men got all excited and spun around whenever someone tried to talk to her. So she changed her name. She couldn%26#39;t pronounce Wayne or Debbie no matter how much she tried and called them Mr Wyatt and Madam Emmie all day. We stopped at the coconut farm on the way then went on a long boat through the canals until we arrived at the markets. Had a lot of fun there trying different things and making some final purchases. Then onto the wood carving factory. These people are so incredibly talented. Some of the items are so cheap. Lots of beautiful furniture. After this onto the rose gardens where we had a buffet lunch with everything from western to thai to indian food so something for everyone. The elephant show was next followed by the cutltural show. I had been hesitant when booking as everyone said it was very touristy but we really enjoyed it. Only went for an hour and a quarter. There was always something happening, so much colour, so much variety we didn%26#39;t get a chance to get bored. A little bit of thai boxing, thai dancing, thai lifestyle, thai wedding. It was fun.

Got back to the hotel and had a night in the sports bar playing pool, sharing pizzas and having a few drinks. Decided as it was our last night to splurge and order a bottle of wine which cost 1000 baht ($35 Aus) and it wasn%26#39;t even that good. Ended up playing darts but when none of us could hit the board (too many drinks) retired to our rooms to pack and get organised.

I woke up at 3am and couldn%26#39;t get back to sleep so got up at 3.30am and had a shower then cup of tea. Beat the wakeup call which came at 4.15am. Picked up at 5.30 am and went to the airport. Was so excited that we were not overweight (well our bags anyway as we all were from the amount we had eaten). Glad they didn%26#39;t weigh the cabin baggage though. Had time to go to the toilet and wander up to the gate before we had to board. Long flight back but so much better than a night time flight. Staff again very friendly and food was actually quite good. Only downer was having to go via Sydney where we had to get off, take all our personal luggage and put it through the x-ray machines before transferring to the transit lounge and 10 minutes later getting back on the plane. Got back to Brisbane, bought the duty free alcohol, went through customs which wasn%26#39;t too bad, waiting for the shuttle, collected our car from the long stay car park then home to Noosa. Got home at 2.30 am and sat talking to the kids until 4.30 am before falling into bed to plan next years trip.

JBR (Sorry..More like a book!)

Great report, thank you. Brings back many memories.

JBR (Sorry..More like a book!)

Hi Wendy, great report. Everything you done sounds wonderful. Wondering how you were getting that timber lamp back home, but you did, well done.

What a laugh with you at the night markets, vodka and neurofen plus, no wonder you don%26#39;t remember haha. It sounds like you all had a ball. Thanks again for the read.

Rene

Hi Wendy,

well you did warn us it was long.......but what a great report, full of info to help everyone. Glad you had a great trip!!! Might catch up with you over there next year!

Karin

Hi Wendy,

LOVED your report! Thanks so much.

This scared me a little.....';Timber 3 piece buddha face – 380 baht for medium size (started at 2800 baht)';

FAR OUT BRUSSEL SPROUT.....here i am thinking 40% of what they are asking as a general rule

does this happen with many items?

Kim

wendy!!!! your back

fantastic report, made me wish i was back there except for the trip up to the hillside tribes... noo wayyy. you can keep that experience...

great reading your JBR.....

will have to make it to chiang mai next time.

regards

laurel

Hi Wendy,

What a great report, very informative and it looks like you had a great time.

Did you get to see any beautiful gardens on the Mae Sa Valley loop ?

Apparently there are resorts on the Hang Dong to Samoeng Road that have lovely gardens.

When we go we will check out the pottery places and let you know what they are like.

What were your Dvd%26#39;s like , good copies?

Cheers,

Stewie.

Wow Wendy, your report was fantastic, what a holiday you have had, it also cracked me up re your nurofren and alcohol pain killers. We love Century Park Hotel, have stayed there twice now.

Thanks heaps for your report, enjoyed every word of it.

Cathy

Bruce

You%26#39;ll have to plan another trip

Elietia

We put the lamp in a large box and marked it fragile. Only weighed 6 kilo and we put it through as checked luggage.

Karin

Think we are planning on same time next year as you and would love to catch up. Maybe at the Friday night BBQ

Kim

I don%26#39;t think their is a general rule. You just need to know your prices. Some started at ridiculously high prices so I would counteract with a ridiculously low price. They usually looked at me, I would smile, they would laugh and come back with a reasonable starting figure. The best bargains were always the things you didn%26#39;t really want and were prepared to walk away from. Low season also gives you better prices. And if in doubt try the neurofen and vodka.

Laurel

Missed our daily chats so lots of catching up to do now

Stewie

Had a large list of DVD%26#39;s from the kids. Most of the ones we have looked at are good. Movies that haven%26#39;t come out here yet are oviously copied from the pictures and you get laughing in the background so they are never as good. Nicest gardens we saw were at the Hilltribe. Didn%26#39;t get as far as the Botanical gardens unfortunately. In hindsight we had planned too much and just couldn%26#39;t fit it all in. Would do 6 days at CM next time. Best gardens overall were at the summer palace in Bangkok

Cathy

Are you back yet? If your not must be getting close. Can%26#39;t wait to read your JBR.